It is obvious that Terry enjoyed fine food. Besides this taste, he really liked things to be fine. Frequently he commented on the cleanliness or tidiness of his lodgings and his clothing. He wrote about his room in Amsterdam: “good clean room, great shower.” Later in Budapest his “pension” is noted as: “Clean with shower and toilet…Margarite [pension owner] will allow me to iron a couple shirts.”
Upon arrival in Vienna he went “directly to Haydn Hotel - - nice room on a busy street, but quiet. As in all my travels I like to unpack and organize myself immediately.”
Throughout Terry’s writing the costs of food, travel, and lodging are noted along with gratitude to those who contributed to his trip. It appeared that he wanted to make the most of his money.
Terry’s journal lifts out a keen interest. History and architecture on his trip reflected an earlier period in his life when he was an archeology student at UCLA. Then he went on archeological digs to Mexico and Central America. Although he didn’t complete the program, he maintained an interest. He wrote from Vienna: “Took the metro back to the Hofburg Palace and visited the Treasury where all the ceremonial robes of the Hapsburgs are kept as well as the jewels, crowns, and royal accoutrements…On to St. Stephens’s Cathedral and took interior altar pictures…yesterday had taken exterior photos…”
Earlier in Amsterdam: “The canal cruise was great...included Anne Frank house, Rijksmuseum, and Van Gogh.” Before leaving the Netherlands: “Stopping at Zaanse Schans to view windmills.”
From the Rhine boat trip he wrote: “Taking many pictures following the Rhine book I bought on board so I have been able to log the town names, castle names correctly.” He adds with long range vision, “This will make looking at pictures much more enjoyable and memorable.”
Stepping off the Rhine boat in Boppard, Germany he observes, “ beautiful town - the architecture never stops - - it is so Bavarian, so stylized.”
While in Prague Terry dined in a castle (unnamed), toured the “castle and other structures within the castle walls…Absolutely beautiful city - - many reminders of their Communist days – in fact from my hotel window many surrounding apartments are definitely Communist construction.”
My writing causes me to reread and reread the journal. I am stuck with Terry’s detail (I am omitting travel fares, times and room rates) and notation: “Took more pictures and identified all structures - - hoping photos will be a good guide.”
The lodging in Budapest sounds so nice: “this area is 9 miles from city center: wooded country feeling - - largest homes in Budapest in this area, old and very beautiful structures.”
Returning to Vienna, he notes: “Once I was ready to sightsee, a bit tired I went off to the Schőnbrunn Palace - - a summer residence of the Hapsburgs. This palace has over 1400 rooms. Took pictures of exteriors of the palace and courtyard. I had reserved an English tour of 40 rooms and while waiting for the tour I went to the cafe for a piece of wonderful chocolate cake and a latte…tour of the rooms was interesting.”
The Vienna time sounds exciting: “On to see the apartment of S. Freud…off on the metro to Belvedere Palace, home of Prince Eugene of Savoy. Major restoration is underway so very little of the Palace can be seen on the interior - - took many exterior pictures of the Palace and the gardens…Vienna has not only been a beautiful city, it is extremely clean. Everyone should visit here sometime.”
He describes a little travel drama: “Arrived in Salzburg and what seems to be a constant communication breakdown. Bought a 24 hour pass and Frommer’s says to take bus #1 and at another point transfer to #60. However there are two types of #1—one with electric cable and the other a bus with no cable. Bus driver said I couldn’t get on so the saga of high stress resumed. I called the pension and talked to the daughter who has a good grasp of English. She couldn’t figure the problem out. So I went back to #1 bus and this driver was able to tell me what the problem was - - I was not yet feeling like Julie Andrews - - but I knew shortly I’d be singing DO - RE - ME.”
After the transportation snafu Terry enjoyed the small, clean city of Salzburg: “By far my favorite city I’ve visited - - lights out.” That day had brought much pleasure and “amazement when I got to the top I was at the Hohensalzburg Fortress.”
The last castle Terry visited was one of three built by King Ludwig II (Louis II or Mad King Ludwig) in Bavaria, a kilometer from Austria. Neuschwanstein Castle was begun in 1868 and never completed. It was Wagner, inspired, as King Ludwig II was a patron of the great composer. The castle also served as inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle. Terry’s former lover Tom had “encouraged me to work on seeing them…should make Tom happy.”
As I write about and glean from Terry’s trip, miraculous trip, I am realizing that I hardly knew Terry. We had so little time together as adults due to geographic distance, and we grew up with very different interests and life experiences.. This is not unique for siblings, but it brings some emotions of loss. I was not aware of his interests in art, music, architecture, history, nature, and life in general. I didn’t know of his grit. The trip To Europe took energy, it took him down. He knew it would and did it anyway. Years earlier it took grit for him to come out as gay. I remember the night near the Butler University campus in Indianapolis, when I sat in a VW bug with Terry and two of his lesbian friends as they lovingly, supportingly encouraged him in the process. Cold night, fogged windows, so close together, so intimately intense. Grit.
Throughout the trip Terry noted beauty - - in Holland: “Disappointed the flower fields are finished for the year - - those still in bloom are beautiful.” In Prague: “This is a charming restaurant with small, separate rooms with stuffed game birds on the walls along with animal pelts. I’m looking at a stuffed pheasant (while eating pheasant) and a stuffed weasel - - feeling so Bohemia.”
Before leaving Prague: “Tonight I bought a ticket at the State Opera - ‘La Traviata’ played until 9:30 - - an hour before the train - - also next door to the station.”
In Vienna: “After breakfast a 15-20 minute walk to the Hofburg to hear the Vienna Boys Choir. Traveling alone does have advantages when you want a ticket - - there was one ticket left to hear high mass & the choir. I did not see any of it in person; however, the room I sat in had a TV monitor and the sound was great. I truly enjoyed hearing the choir as far as high mass you know about the Catholic glamor & ceremony - - loved his robe. There are three choirs so one is always in residence and the others travel…”
“I was getting tired and wanted to see the Opera House. Aida was in performance tonight - - and there was one $50 ticket - - too much, plus I really am not familiar with opera.” Tiredness is really setting in for Terry. This would be a hard journey for a well person!
The alpine beauty was a great part of the trip: “The train ride from Salzburg to Innsbruck was wonderful. Starting to get into the mountains and some high peaks still have snow packs - - it is another sunny warm day - - how fortunate I’ve been with the weather…Innsbruck is a beautiful city situated in a valley surrounded by mountains. The 64 Winter Olympics were held here and many of the venues are still here.”
Next week will be A Side Trip with input from Connie, one of Terry’s close friends. I gathered the information from Connie after Terry died. Come back next week to experience her detailed and loving thoughts about Terry.